Pinot Meunier Exposé
The coolest, jammiest, laid-back noble grape of the bunch operates mostly undercover. But fatcork producers say the time is right to reveal its true nature.
Pinot meunier is exceptional at a great many things, but commanding the spotlight is not one of them. Over the centuries, winemakers in Champagne have come to rely on the grape’s hardiness, resistance to frosts and ability to bring fruitiness and body to their blended cuvées. But pinot meunier has largely been relegated to the wings while the bigger name grapes chardonnay and pinot noir take center stage. That is, until now.
A growing number of talented and ambitious vignerons are finally giving the once overlooked and underappreciated grape the recognition it deserves — not just as grape fit for blending, but as a solo act worthy of attention.
What is pinot meunier?
Though it was once thought to be a cross, experts have confirmed that pinot meunier is, in fact, a mutation of pinot noir. First identified in the 16th century, the dark, purple-skinned grape earned its name from the French word for "miller," a reference to a thin layer of tiny white hairs on the underside of its leaves that gives the appearance of a dusting of flour.
Compared to the other Champagne grapes chardonnay and pinot noir, pinot meunier buds later in the growing season but ripens earlier. This unique characteristic makes pinot meunier less susceptible to winter and spring frosts. It grows prolifically in the clay-packed soil of Vallée de la Marne, the subregion of Champagne that follows the Marne river west of Épernay toward Paris. While pinot meunier makes up about 32% of the total vineyard plantings in Champagne, 62% can be found in Vallée de la Marne.
Pinot meunier’s ability to thrive in the most challenging soils and climates cemented its reputation as a robust and reliable workhorse, while the more delicate chardonnay and pinot noir required the perfect growing conditions that only the very best Premier and Grand Cru plots provide.
As Champagne reached new heights of popularity in the early 20th century, pinot meunier slipped further into the shadows as the grand maisons primarily sourced pinot noir and chardonnay grapes from Montagne de Reims and Côtes des Blancs. When they didn’t have enough grapes, they would go to the Vallée de la Marne to get pinot meunier to bolster their blends.
But pinot meunier didn’t just add bulk to their production. Similar to pinot noir in texture and flavor, pinot meunier on its own is light, aromatic and juicy. Winemakers soon discovered that it blended beautifully with chardonnay and pinot noir, adding a distinctive freshness, balance and structure to their wines that they couldn’t achieve without pinot meunier.
Pinot meunier today
Though, historically, pinot meunier has been thought of as the third place varietal, inferior to chardonnay and pinot noir and fit only for a blend, a focus on single-varietal, single-vineyard cuvées has led some producers to boldly buck tradition in favor of letting pinot meunier steal the show.
We are proud to offer some of the world’s best pinot meunier-dominant and 100% pinot meunier cuvées in our portfolio. Check them out for yourself below.
Mathieu-Gandon Pur Meunier Extra Brut 2018
$70
